Day 4, May 25th
This was the day we had chosen to visit Vatican City. It meant an early start and a harrowing taxi ride to that part of Rome. We also had to dress for the trip; the Vatican has a strict no knees, shoulders, midriffs, or cleavage for all visitors and it’s strictly enforced. We decided to go first to the Tomb of the Popes, which turned out to be just as creepy as it sounds. Basically most of the older tombs have effigies on top that are surprisingly life-like and you’re supposed to be very quiet down there. Our next stop was going inside Saint Peter’s, which naturally was crowded though we later heard that it wasn’t as busy as it normally is. I guess it helped to go on a Monday. Saint Peter’s was just as magnificent as I had anticipated with Bernini’s Baldacchino rising over the altar. I had been anticipating seeing the Baldacchino for so long. Sometimes when you imagine seeing something it becomes bigger and better in your mind than what you end up seeing. This was not the case at all and I took millions of pictures. The space was just so huge and magnificently decorated absolutely everywhere. I even got to see Bernini’s four saint statues up close, like St. Longinus. Michelangelo’s Pieta was behind glass and very crowded but I still managed to see all of the detail he put into it.
Our next stop was the cupola. Mom and I rode the elevator up to the top of Saint Peter’s but then we had to climb up 321 stairs to the top before we could see magnificent views of Rome. But remember how hot it was for the first few days? Well it was just as hot today and I probably lost five pounds just from sweating. Also the stairs are narrow and at points curve with the dome so you are forced to curve your body as well. But all the pain was worth it and you could see all of Rome, for miles and miles from the top, even the Colosseum and the Wedding Cake. Though I thought I was going to pass out on the way down, it wasn’t a bad trip. We got cokes at the little rooftop café on the top of St. Peter’s to rehydrate.
After visiting St. Peter’s, we made our way around to the Vatican Museum. The line seemed pretty long but it moved fast. On our way into the city on Friday, we saw the line to get into the museum and it wrapped really far around the Vatican. The museum itself was kind of odd. Most people are only there to see the Sistine Chapel, which I will admit was my main goal too, but the crowds are like salmon, all moving in one direction and pushing you along. The nice part though was that the Raphael rooms weren’t as crowded so I got a chance to admire his brilliant colors and the way he used perspective. These are the things we always talked about in class but you really don’t get a feel for them until you’re up close. They were also pretty small so you had a chance to be closer. Finally we were ushered into the crowds in the Sistine Chapel. Before looking up at the ceiling, you just look out into the crowd (since you’re up on the altar) and it looks like a giant mosh pit. Surprisingly you got a good chance to look at the ceiling and the frescoes along the way. The blue in the Last Judgment fresco was just so bright and the ceiling was so fine and detailed. Now I understand what all the fuss is about! Since the Sistine Chapel is the last thing in the museum, we made our way out and over to a small pizzeria down a side street. I was exhausted from all the crowds and art so a good Pizza Margherita was just what I needed.
For our trip back to the hotel, we decided to cross the Ponte Sant’Angelo which is right by the Castel Sant’Angelo and designed by Bernini. I absolutely love the angel statues on that bridge. They are so beautiful and look real like they’re just resting there for a little bit. Our way back was another journey of weaving through the Roman streets, this time a much longer journey than any of our others. We passed Santa Maria della Pace which unfortunately was closed but we did get some gelato and head into the Piazza Navona. We even put our dirty and tired feet in one of the fountains but the polizia came and yelled at us. Thankfully we made it back to our hotel for a much needed shower.
Giovanni had told us the day before to have dinner at the café since Andrea Botticelli was going to be performing at the Colosseum and that’s just what we did. It was almost a relief not to have to navigate through the city after having walked all the way back from the Vatican. I had a Caprese salad with the most amazing Buffalo mozzarella and then spaghetti alla Carbonara. Giovanni then proceeded to prepare a special dessert for us which involved strawberries and sugar and Grand Marnier over a flame. It was a little scary but delicious.
After dinner we walked across the street to the Colosseum to see if we could hear and watch Andrea Botticelli. Through one of the openings we could actually see him and we could hear him too which was pretty awesome. This is also where we met Luca and Fabrettzio, two Italian boys who wanted to take us for a drink. We headed over to the Royal Bar, just two doors down from our usual café. Luca was already drunk and didn’t speak any English; Fabrettzio spoke very little English. It made conversation interesting but even I wasn’t so bad at Italian that I could understand why Luca was all over me. And even though “no” is pretty universal, again he was drunk. He wasn’t even that cute and though I don’t mind meeting new people, especially guys, in a new place, all the romance of Rome had reminded me of my recent break-up and how much I wished my ex was still with me. We ended up back at the café and Luca still wasn’t getting the hint so thankfully Giovanni and Stefano, the owner of the café, explained in Italian that he should go home and sleep it off. Since they are Italian, there was a lot of gesturing and shouting but the boys (really they were only 19 and 20) left. Stefano summed it up easily: “It’s the Italian way.” After a glass of wine, we went back and practically collapsed at the hotel.